Last-of-Season - RAMPS!!

Just spotted down at Frank's Produce - likely the very last hit of ramps for the season. For those not "in the know", ramps (aka "wild leeks") are a variety of spring onion that grows wild throughout North America. Their oniony-garlicky flavor is perfect with many other early spring products.

I had planned to post this recipe a week ago, but it seemed ramp season had come to an abrupt halt. If you're looking for the perfect no-frills accompaniment for that expensive filet of Copper River salmon you just bought, look no further.

Run out and grab those ramps while they last!


RAMP RISOTTO

1 bunch ramps
4 Tb butter
4-5 cups stock (chicken, fish or vegetable, as appropriate)
⅔ cup dry white wine
1⅓ cups rice (Arborio, Carnaroli or Vialone Nano)
½ tsp Meyer lemon peel, grated
salt
juice of ½ Meyer lemon
black pepper, freshly cracked
⅓ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, freshly grated (optional)

Gently rinse ramps in cold water. Trim off root end, removing slimy outer skin, if necessary. Cut ramps in half, separating white portion from green. Chop white portion. Cut green portion crosswise into ribbons, approx. ¼ inch wide; reserve for later use.

On a back burner, bring stock to a boil, then reduce heat to simmer. In a large saucepan, melt 2 Tb butter. When butter begins to foam, add chopped ramp whites. Cook on medium heat until tender, but not brown. Add rice to pan, stirring to coat the grains well. Toast rice gently for nearly a minute. Add wine to pan, stirring until absorbed. Add one cup of hot stock, stirring constantly. Salt lightly and add grated lemon peel. Continue adding stock gradually, ladleful by ladleful, stirring continually until absorbed. Add ramp greens, stirring until wilted.

When the rice is done – there should be enough liquid to make it creamy, but the grains must still be firm – add the rest of the butter, the lemon juice, and plenty of fresh-cracked black pepper. Add cheese, if using. Adjust salt to taste. Plate, drizzling with a small amount of extra-virgin olive oil, if desired. Serves 2-4.

Wine suggestions: White Burgundy and ramps go beautifully together. Sauvignon Blanc can also work very well. Arneis, a variety from Piemonte, would be excellent, particularly when serving with fish.

Kyle D.T. Reynolds

Paseo Cuban Roast Pork and Rosé Nirvana

While our blog is called Pike and Western Cooks, it could also be called Pike and Western Eats, because we engage in the activity of eating even more than the activity of cooking. Take last night for instance. I knew I would be dining alone as my wife had a dinner meeting. While I don't mind whipping up dinner for one, that wasn't in the cards last night. I got off work a little late and there was an NBA Playoff game in progress so there was little time for cooking.

As I drove home with a bottle with a bottle of Château du Rouët Rosé in my bag I was pondering my options. Then, as I exited Highway 99 at Fremont it struck me; Paseo! A Paseo sandwich would be great with my rose. Since there is now one on Shilshole, near my house, I opted to stop by their electric pink outpost. I generally order the basic and stunningly delicious Paseo Pork Sandwich but this evening my eye was drawn to the Cuban Roast version; slow roasted pork shoulder piled high on the bun with ample grilled onions and a healthy dose of jalapeños. In a brief five minutes I was back in my car and speeding home, the aromas driving me crazy.

Upon arrival I popped the cork on the rose and, because it wasn't cold, dropped a couple if ice cubes in it (don't be shocked). I unwrapped the sandwich put it on a plate and headed downstairs to watch the game. Slightly distracted by the game I took my first bite; I was no longer distracted. All my senses were focused on this messy, porky, spicy wonder that that had taken over my senses. A sip of wine was in order as the jalapeños kicked in. Whoa! Had I found a perfect combination? The fresh fruit of the wine countered the spice and pork beautifully, balancing the very rich flavors of the sandwich and refreshing my palate for the next bite. As I looked up, the game was close late in the fourth quarter. I was in heaven.

Michael Teer

VEAL CHOPS WITH MORELS

2 veal chops, pref. "tomahawk" (rib-on), approx. 1 lb. each
2 Tb olive or grapeseed oil
salt, pepper

For mushrooms:

1/4 lb. morel mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed
2 Tb butter
dash of dried thyme
2 tsp dry Amontillado sherry
1-1/2 cups veal stock, heated
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 tsp Champagne vinegar
salt, pepper

Leave veal chops out until they come to room temperature. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Generously season one side of both chops with salt and pepper. On the stove, heat a large heavy-bottomed oven-safe skillet on medium-high heat until very hot. Add olive or grapeseed oil to skillet. Carefully place the chops in the pan, seasoned side down, laying them away from you so as to avoid being splashed with hot oil. Allow the chops to sear, without moving them, for about a minute or so. Generously season the top side of both chops. Once they are sufficiently browned on the one side, turn the chops. Place the entire skillet into the oven, allowing the chops to cook to desired doneness. Optimally, chops should be just blushing pink at the center. When done, set the chops aside on a plate, covered loosely in foil, to rest.

Pour off any remaining fat in the skillet, then place it on the stove at medium heat. Add butter to pan. When butter begins to foam, add morel mushrooms, tossing to coat them in butter. Season them lightly with salt, pepper and a small amount of dried thyme. Continue sautéing until mushrooms begin to soften slightly. At this point, remove the mushrooms to a bowl and reserve.

Return the skillet to the heat. Deglaze the pan with the dry Amontillado sherry, scraping up any brown bits. Reduce the sherry to nearly a glaze. Add the veal stock to the pan, bringing to a gentle boil. Add any juices that have accumulated on the plate with the chops to the pan with the stock. Reduce the stock by two-thirds. Remove from heat, then add heavy cream to the skillet. Return to heat, allowing the sauce to come again to a gentle boil. Reduce by one-third. Add vinegar to sauce. Return reserved morel mushrooms and any juices to the sauce. Taste for seasoning, adjusting if necessary.

Plate chops. Arrange half the mushrooms on each chop. Spoon sauce over chops.

Serves two.

Wine Suggestions: This is a dish that can work with either reds or whites. I served mine with blanched local asparagus, so I opted for a rich Grüner Veltliner from Austria. White Burgundy, particularly Meursault, would work equally well. Red Burgundies, Beaujolais, Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley, even Right Bank Bordeaux would be excellent choices.

Kyle D.T. Reynolds