VEAL CHOPS WITH MORELS

2 veal chops, pref. "tomahawk" (rib-on), approx. 1 lb. each
2 Tb olive or grapeseed oil
salt, pepper

For mushrooms:

1/4 lb. morel mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed
2 Tb butter
dash of dried thyme
2 tsp dry Amontillado sherry
1-1/2 cups veal stock, heated
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 tsp Champagne vinegar
salt, pepper

Leave veal chops out until they come to room temperature. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Generously season one side of both chops with salt and pepper. On the stove, heat a large heavy-bottomed oven-safe skillet on medium-high heat until very hot. Add olive or grapeseed oil to skillet. Carefully place the chops in the pan, seasoned side down, laying them away from you so as to avoid being splashed with hot oil. Allow the chops to sear, without moving them, for about a minute or so. Generously season the top side of both chops. Once they are sufficiently browned on the one side, turn the chops. Place the entire skillet into the oven, allowing the chops to cook to desired doneness. Optimally, chops should be just blushing pink at the center. When done, set the chops aside on a plate, covered loosely in foil, to rest.

Pour off any remaining fat in the skillet, then place it on the stove at medium heat. Add butter to pan. When butter begins to foam, add morel mushrooms, tossing to coat them in butter. Season them lightly with salt, pepper and a small amount of dried thyme. Continue sautéing until mushrooms begin to soften slightly. At this point, remove the mushrooms to a bowl and reserve.

Return the skillet to the heat. Deglaze the pan with the dry Amontillado sherry, scraping up any brown bits. Reduce the sherry to nearly a glaze. Add the veal stock to the pan, bringing to a gentle boil. Add any juices that have accumulated on the plate with the chops to the pan with the stock. Reduce the stock by two-thirds. Remove from heat, then add heavy cream to the skillet. Return to heat, allowing the sauce to come again to a gentle boil. Reduce by one-third. Add vinegar to sauce. Return reserved morel mushrooms and any juices to the sauce. Taste for seasoning, adjusting if necessary.

Plate chops. Arrange half the mushrooms on each chop. Spoon sauce over chops.

Serves two.

Wine Suggestions: This is a dish that can work with either reds or whites. I served mine with blanched local asparagus, so I opted for a rich Grüner Veltliner from Austria. White Burgundy, particularly Meursault, would work equally well. Red Burgundies, Beaujolais, Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley, even Right Bank Bordeaux would be excellent choices.

Kyle D.T. Reynolds